will not re-engage after casting
the release button has to be pulled out to engage the gears the spring (22804)
is broken, but if the reel can be put in gear by turning the handle sharply the
spring might just be on its last legs - more likely the spool release lever (21432)
is worn. In worst case scenarios the cog on the main drive shaft (22081) can also
be worn. Remove left side plate and check these components. Fit a new spring no
matter what. Inspect the lever for wear at its tip - if it is grooved replace
it. Check the main cog which the lever acts on for wear and replace if worn -
this part seems to wear less than the lever.
-The release return spring has been beefed up, and a different part number has
been assigned. The last time I ordered some I was quoted one part number for this
spring, but the number written on the bag they came in was different. Best to
check before ordering!
Update - Latest
models have the redesigned release mechanism first used on RHW models (schematic).
The return spring has been done away with as it is now part of a new pinion lifter
retainer (25994) and the release lever is a new
shape and incompatible with older models. The same principles of wear apply
to the system, but should the spring fail you will have to replace the pinion
Reel 'squeals' on casting
Lack of lubrication is the
cause of casting noise. A quick, but temporary, fix can usually be achieved by
dunking the reel in the water! This will do the reel no good in the long run -
and is definitely not recommended for saltwater anglers. The reel should be stripped,
dried and relubricated on returning home after this barbaric treatment. If you
carry oil with you treat the levelwind worm gear and spool bearings. To access
the spool bearings when fishing remove the left hand side plate and pull the spool
out. Take care when replacing the spool to ensure brake blocks are pushed fully
in before replacing the side plate. If the reel still squeals after lubrication,
replace the bearings.
a 'grating' sound while retrieving
doesn't work correctly
of line to one side of the spool can be caused by a few things. First check that
the left hand side plate hasn't come loose. If it has tighten it into place and
try the reel again. If this doesn't solve the problem a new levelwind pawl (5176/5177)
is probably required. Move levelwind to one side of the frame. Remove the cap
from underneath the line guide. Shake or prize out the old pawl and drop in a
fresh one. The pawl will need to be lined up with the worm gear in order to drop
fully into place. Refit cap
the levelwind still misbehaves a new worm gear might be required, or there could
be dirt clogging the levelwind. Remove pawl as described above, and take off right
hand side plate. Push forward retaining plate (5178) under the exposed brass levelwind
cog. Pull out worm gear by the cog. Clean inside the worm gear shroud, and clean
the worm itself. Refit, oil and test - not forgetting to replace the pawl. Do
not grease the levelwind mechanism unless you want to drastically cut your casting
distance - use only oil. If still no joy fit new worm gear. Might as well make
it a dual bearing one while you're at it!
on there is some sand or grit in the levelwind. The 'dunking' trick should clear
that, and a drop of oil on the levelwind worm will smooth things out for the rest
of the day.
Drag cannot be tightened
If using braid on the reel check that the line isn't slipping around
the spool. If it is, strip the line from the spool and either tape the first few
yards to the spool with masking tape, or add a layer of nylon as backing before
respooling the braid.
still slips then replace the concave/convex washers (5131). Long-term tightening
of the drag can squash these washers and adversely affect the performance of the
drag. An emergency repair can be effected by bending the washers to give more
curve and refitting them.
drag still not function then the entire system needs stripping down and cleaning
- replacement of the non-metal washers is recommended. Or you could replace the
lot with Smoothie washers. In a perfect world
we would all slacken off our drags between fishing sessions to prevent them seizing
up - but we don't...
This can be an intermittent problem, or
permanent. If it is intermittent strip the left hand side plate and remove it
exposing the anti-reverse bearing that the main handle drive shaft runs through.
Clean the bearing and re-oil it. If the problem persists a new bearing is required
- which means a whole new side plate as the bearing is not removable.
Not a major problem,
but annoying. Power handles are particularly prone to squeaking when ageing. Lubricate
the inside of the handle knob. I guess oil or grease is best, but saliva seems
to do a good job when applied once or twice a day! Persistent squeaks suggest
it is time for a new handle. The soft touch flat handle grips shouldn't squeak
as they have a central plastic sleeve, but the grips themselves have been known
to pull off some models of this handle when you strike!
slips when working lures
Firstly, when using braided line,
check that the line is not slipping around the spool. If it is strip the line
off and secure the first couple of turns with a wrap of insulation or masking
If the line is not slipping
make sure that the drag is tightened sufficiently, if it is check for contamination
on the drag washers. If the drag is not the cause and the spool still slips possibly
with a juddering feeling as it does and perhaps accompanied by a grating sound,
then it is likely a case of worn gears. Close inspection of the pinion and drive
gears is required as there may only be localised wear causing the gears to fail
to mesh intermittently as the worn sections on each gear meet. It is wise to replace